First glimpse of Grey Glacier from the John Gardner Pass.
Celebrating 50: An Adventure to Remember
When our batch turned 50 last year, we knew we had to mark the milestone with something special. Not just a typical celebration, but an adventure - something that would take us far away to a place of unparalleled beauty and wonder. It had to be a destination we had only seen in photos, read about in travelogues, and dreamt of visiting. Patagonia, with its rugged landscapes and untamed beauty, fit the bill perfectly.
For the past decade, I’ve carved out a one- or two-week window each year to relive my college days with my closest friends. These trips have become a cherished tradition, taking us to incredible places. We’ve trekked to Bagini Glacier and Changabang Base Camp in the Nanda Devi Outer Sanctuary, climbed Stok Kangri, hiked the Cordillera Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes, and even attempted Mont Blanc in the French Alps. Each journey has been more than just a getaway; it’s been a mix of self-discovery, digital detox, and a chance to immerse ourselves in the raw beauty of remote corners of the world.
But this trip had to be different - something truly unique and unforgettable. It wasn’t just about the destination this time; it was about celebrating a half-century of life and friendship in a way that honored the spirit of adventure that brought us together all those years ago.
The O Circuit: Planning Our Patagonian Adventure
It was Jaydeep’s idea to do a trek in Patagonia. We quickly narrowed down to the O Circuit in the Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia. It is by far the most famous trail in Patagonia, known for its unparalleled scenic beauty, Las Torres: the three iconic towers, glaciers, passes, meadows, lakes, and unique wildlife. The allure was irresistible, and seven of us signed up without hesitation. I was particularly excited to test some of the new gear we’ve been developing at Reccy and benchmark them against the best in the world.
Torres del Paine is located near the tip of South America, not too far from Antarctica
But we soon realized that, unlike treks in the Himalayas, any guided or supported itineraries offered by trek companies in Patagonia were prohibitively expensive. Flights weren’t cheap either. That’s when Partha, ever the ingenious one in our group, came up with a plan: we’d go unsupported - no guides, no porters. Over the years, we’d grown accustomed to the luxury of Himalayan treks, where trek companies provided guides, cooks, tents, and mules to offload our rucksacks. We’d simply follow the guide with a light daypack. This time, though, we’d have to do everything ourselves.
The O Circuit required us to study the route, book campsites and meals, download the trail map on our phones, and carry all our gear for the eight-day trek. Knowing Partha’s meticulous nature, the rest of us gladly entrusted the entire logistics planning to him. In hindsight, it was a brilliant decision. Partha finalized the itinerary, selected and booked campsites based on realistic daily distances, and pre-booked meals; none of us were keen on carrying food, utensils and stoves in addition to our personal gear. The cost turned out to be almost half of what trek companies were quoting, but it left us with little margin for error.
Day 1 at the Trailhead: The adventure begins! From left to right: Sudip, Amit, Kallol, Avijit, Partha, Anirban, and Jaydeep, ready to take on the O Circuit.
The Dream Team: Rekindling Old Bonds on the Trail
As batchmates and ex-members of the Jadavpur University Mountaineering & Hiking Club (JUMHC), we have trekked, trained, and embarked on many expeditions together. But this was the first time in almost 25 years that all seven of us came together for a trek. It was a crack team from all aspects, comprising Partha (Technical Product Manager from New Jersey), Amit (Product Manager from Los Angeles), Sudip (Entrepreneur from the Bay Area), Avijit (M&A Specialist from London), Kallol and Jaydeep (Startup Unicorn Founders from Mumbai), and yours truly (cofounder of a fledgling startup).
It's safe to say this was the most entertaining group of people I’ve ever encountered, each a unique character. I was eagerly looking forward to the witty banter, the stories (mostly exaggerated or outright fabrications), and the raucous post-dinner singing sessions, spiritedly led by Sudip and Kallol.
Most of us have been trekking for decades, some have been serious mountaineers as well. Also, Amit regularly participates in the California Ultra Running circuit, Jaydeep and Avijit have been running 10k and 20k races quite regularly, Sudip has recently taken to running, Partha hikes on weekends, and Kallol is a weekend regular at Torna Fort near Pune, I’ve been playing weekend football with occasional hikes in the Sahyadri.
But when I studied the itinerary, it became clear that the O Circuit was not going to be a cakewalk.
Source: Torres del Paine National Park brochure. O Circuit starts from Laguna Amarga and follows the redline counterclockwise until the Grey Lodge & Camping Site, from where it follows the orange line (counterclockwise) until Camp Chileno and then the red line back to Laguna Amarga.
Navigating the O Circuit
The hub for Torres del Paine is Puerto Natales in Chile, a sleepy town close to the southern tip of South America. One can also go from Punta Arenas (250km from Puerto Natales), which has a bigger airport and serves as the gateway to Antarctica. Puerto Natales has 4 to 5 daily flights to and from Santiago.
The recommended itinerary for the O Circuit is eight days, starting and ending in Puerto Natales. On Day 1, we took a bus (which needed to be pre-booked) from the Puerto Natales bus stand to the park’s terminal bus stand near the famous Las Torres Hotel. It’s a 1.5-hour ride covering approximately 100km. On Day 8, we took the bus back to Puerto Natales, again pre-booked in advance.
O Circuit Elevation Map.
Based on the Garmin app, over the eight days, we walked close to 120km and gained almost 20,000 feet in elevation. The trail starts at nearly sea level, with the highest point being the John Gardner Pass at 4,072 feet (1,241 meters).
On the Torres del Paine map, the O Circuit trail is depicted as a red line, traversing counterclockwise starting from Laguna Amarga. At Camp Grey (marked as Grey Lodge and Camping Zone), the O Circuit intersects with the shorter W Circuit and follows it to complete the loop back at Laguna Amarga.
The Backpack Breakdown: What I Carried
Packing for this trip was tricky. Unlike all my recent Himalayan adventures where I could offload my rucksack and walk with a light daypack, on this trek I would have to carry my rucksack. The other complication was my flight connections were very tight.
I decided to pack all my stuff in a 30-liter backpack. I am glad I did this, as I managed to carry this as a cabin bag (with some persuasion as I didn’t check in any bag). More importantly, somehow my shoulder got strained and I struggled even with the 30L backpack on the longer days during the trek.
Here is what I carried in the 30-liter backpack:
I had just received prototypes of our soon-to-be-launched All Weather Nomadic Pants. I wore a pair for eight days straight during the trek. It (rather I) survived sub-zero temperatures and withstood light rain and dirt with flying colors. Reccy’s baselayers/full sleeve hiking t-shirts had been tested extensively by then and performed admirably. Reccy TechFlex joggers were a super hit as travel wear on flights, as nighttime comfort wear, and for casual (non-trekking) outings.
The waterproof socks that Amit got from Amazon USA (not sure about the brand) were super impressive. I wore the pair through the trek, and the way it withstood rain and slush is hard to believe.
The primary footwear was Columbia’s Peakfreak Outdry waterproof shoes, very light and comfortable. Few others used Hoka trail running shoes.
The rest of my gear was old, bought from Decathlon over the past 10 years for various treks and expeditions.
The Journey: A Day-by-Day Account
Reaching Puerto Natales: The Adventure Before the Adventure
Reaching Puerto Natales was no mean feat. I faced multiple challenges and had a serious risk of not reaching at all.
First, since my US visa had expired, I had to get a Chilean visa. It finally came just two days before my departure, after I pleaded that this was a trip of a lifetime I couldn’t afford to miss. If you have a valid US visa, Chile offers a visa on arrival for Indians.
Second, even though travel agents assured me I could fly Air France via Paris without an airport transit visa, the agent at Mumbai airport refused to issue a boarding pass, claiming I needed one. He suggested switching to KLM via Amsterdam, which doesn’t require a transit visa for Indians. I managed to change my tickets 2 hours before the flight, calling Air France’s US toll-free number at midnight as their India office was closed.
Clock wise from top left: (1) Buenos Aires to Santiago. Mt. Aconcagua is close by. (2) On Reaching Puerto Natales town. (3) Is that Kohli? (4) Puerto Natales town is full of such adorable dogs.
Finally, my connection from Amsterdam to Santiago (via Buenos Aires) was delayed, leaving me just 30 minutes to transfer terminals in Santiago for my flight to Puerto Natales. Not having a checked bag helped. I blatantly jumped to the VIP immigration counter and sprinted nearly a kilometer to the domestic terminal, making it as the last passenger to board the flight. Quite an adventure before the real adventure began!
Day 1: To Camp Seron – Fast and Furious
Distance: 16.5km | Time: 4:05 hours | Elevation: 527m gain / 452m loss
On the way to Camp Seron.
The O Circuit demands walking 10 to 20km daily, averaging around 15km with rugged terrain and constant ascents and descents. By comparison, Day 1 felt like a leisurely walk. Starting from the bus stop, we grouped into pairs. Without a guide, we decided the trailing two would always stay together, while others hiked at their own pace.
Jaydeep and Amit, seasoned runners, naturally set the pace, followed by Avijit and Partha. I took it easy, enjoying the scenic undulating terrain. Along the way, we met hikers from around the world, including a group of young Americans, a Chilean couple, and a New Zealand teacher.
Camp Seron: We stayed in one of the large elevated luxury tents.
After a short lunch break, we reached Camp Seron in just three hours, among the first to arrive. The highlight of the evening was Sudip demonstrating yoga poses to hikers in the cafeteria (one of his many hidden talents that never fails to surprise us every time we meet), and discovering that the cafeteria served beer.
Morning of day 2: before we started hiking towards Camp Dixon.
Our large elevated tents offered plenty of space, but my hydration backfired when I had to make a pitch-dark trek to the distant washroom in the middle of the night. The morning began cloudy with light drizzle as we headed toward Camp Dixon. Avijit, with his trademark sarcasm, quipped, "Just my luck, traveling 13,000 kilometers from London, only to be greeted by the same old gloomy weather as back home.”
Day 2: Seron to Camp Dixon – A Sad Turn
Distance: 16.7km | Time: 5 hours | Elevation: 469m gain / 619m loss
On the trail to Camp Dixon.
The terrain grew more challenging as we approached Camp Dixon, with taller mountains framing the trail. Midway, at Coiron Ranger Station, we showed passports and had lunch. For most of us, the day passed uneventfully except for Kallol, who left his phone behind at a rest point. Thankfully, a group of young hikers found the phone, and Kallol, ever gracious, treated them to dinner and drinks in gratitude. The next morning, as we set off on our hike, we couldn’t help but laugh at the sight of the same group of hikers trailing behind Kallol, playfully hoping he might drop something else and reward them with another round of beer!
Camp Dixon: Our dormitory.
The next morning brought shocking news via Partha’s satellite device: Sudip’s father had passed away in Kolkata. A witty and beloved figure from our college days, whose presence was woven into so many cherished memories, his loss was profoundly felt. Sudip insisted we continue while he returned to Kolkata via Puerto Natales and Santiago.
Day 3: Dixon to Los Perros – Lull Before the Storm
Distance: 11.2km | Time: 3:25 hours | Elevation: 536m gain / 222m loss
Los Perros Glacier, just before reaching the Los Perros Camp
With heavy hearts, six of us resumed trekking to Los Perros. After three hours through slushy forest trails, we encountered the Los Perros Glacier, a stunning highlight. Los Perros, the most basic campsite, served as a staging point for crossing John Gardner Pass.
Drying my baselayer at Los Perros Camp.
We retired early, bracing for an early start and a challenging Day 4.
Day 4: Crossing John Gardner Pass to Grey Glacier – The Longest Day
Distance: 22km | Time: 8 - 12 hours | Elevation: 1061m gain / 1516m loss
Day 4 was the heart of the O Circuit and one that truly tested our mettle. Leaving Los Perros at the crack of dawn, we began the relentless uphill trek towards John Gardner Pass. The path, initially damp and forested, soon transitioned to rocky, snow-laden trails. Slush and slippery conditions made every step a cautious one. The higher we climbed, the stronger the winds howled, and the chill intensified.
Hikers approaching John Gardner Pass.
The summit of John Gardner Pass offered an unparalleled view of the Grey Glacier, an expanse of shimmering ice stretching to the horizon. Despite the fierce winds that almost pushed us off balance, we took a moment to soak in the otherworldly landscape. Turning back, the panoramic view of the valley below was equally mesmerizing.
Glimpses of the Grey Glacier from the John Gardner Pass.
Descending from the pass proved to be more challenging than the ascent. Steep, uneven trails tested our knees and concentration. At one point, a narrow path flanked by steep drops forced us to move in single file. The series of creaky hanging wooden bridges, swaying violently in the wind, added a mix of adrenaline and trepidation to the journey.
Amit, Avijit and Jaydeep were first to reach John Gardner Pass
I look happy to have climbed the John Gardner Pass, oblivious to the long, gruelling descent that’s ahead.
At the end of the massive Grey Glacier.
Amit crossing one of the long swinging bridges, hiking towards Camp Grey.
By the time we reached Camp Grey, exhaustion had set in. My shoulders ached, my left knee throbbed, and dehydration loomed. A short nap and a hearty dinner at the camp’s cafeteria rejuvenated me. That evening, we shared stories with fellow trekkers over beers, recounting our day’s challenges and triumphs.
Day 5: Camp Grey to Refugio Paine Grande – Short and Sweet
Distance: 10km | Time: 3:30 hours | Elevation: 414m gain / 466m loss
Camp Grey to Refugio Paine Grande, most relaxed day.
Day 5 offered a relatively easy trek along the shores of Grey Lake. The serene turquoise waters, punctuated by icebergs calving from the glacier, provided a breathtaking backdrop. The trail was well-maintained, with gentle ascents and descents making for a leisurely hike.
We walked along the banks of the Grey Lake.
We reached Refugio Paine Grande before lunch, giving us ample time to unwind. The Refugio, surrounded by snow-capped peaks, felt like a luxurious oasis with its hot showers and cozy cafeteria.
Refugio Paine Grande campsite.
Refugio Paine Grande, the most luxurious camp with a big cafeteria.
For the first time in days, we enjoyed a relaxed afternoon, soaking in the scenery and recharging for the days ahead.
Day 6: To Los Cuernos via Mirador Frances – Thunderstorm
Distance: 12.1km | Time: 3:50 hours | Elevation: 658m gain / 618m loss
On our way to Los Cuernos, weather started worsening
Day 6 began with overcast skies, setting the tone for a day of unpredictable weather. The trail initially meandered through open meadows and forested patches, with signs of past forest fires adding an eerie beauty to the landscape.
On our way to Los Cuernos, the trail was along Grey Lake.
Our group split, with some heading directly to Los Cuernos and others taking the detour to Mirador Frances. The Mirador, a natural amphitheater surrounded by towering granite walls, offered a glimpse into Patagonia’s raw power and grandeur. Unfortunately, the higher Britannica viewpoint was closed due to weather conditions.
Jaydeep, Avijit and Partha hiked up to the Mirador Frances Lookout, an amphitheatre
On the way to Los Curenos, we encountered a pristine beach.
The trail went through a cool beach on Grey Lake.
As we neared Los Cuernos, the weather took a dramatic turn. Thunderstorms rolled in, and heavy rain tested the limits of our gear. Reccy’s Nomadic Pants proved their worth, keeping me dry and comfortable throughout.
Camp Los Cuernos.
Upon arrival, a mix-up with our tent booking was resolved thanks to Partha’s persistence, securing us a luxurious tent reserved for rangers. It was a big relief as for a moment we thought we may not have a place to stay that night.
Day 7: Los Cuernos to Camp Chileno – Base Torres Bliss
Distance: 11.8km | Time: 3:40 hours | Elevation: 871m gain / 559m loss
Chileno – Torres – Chileno
Distance: 6.6km | Time: 3 hours | Elevation: 676m gain / 682m loss
Gorgeous day
Day 7 marked a significant day as we approached the legendary Base Torres. The morning started with a steady ascent from Los Cuernos toward Camp Chileno, with stunning views of jagged peaks and deep valleys. The weather remained unpredictable, oscillating between clear skies and passing drizzles.
On the way to Camp Chileno. Kallol was having a nap somewhere.
Kallol started late and found a cozy spot under the sun to take a short nap on the way.
After a short rest at Camp Chileno, we embarked on the steep climb to Base Torres. The trail was challenging, with sharp ascents over rocky terrain and narrow switchbacks. As I neared the lookout point, my knee pain worsened, forcing me to slow down. Just as I reached the ranger checkpoint, the path to the towers was closed due to safety concerns from poor weather. Amit, Avijit, Partha, and Jaydeep were ahead of me and once they realized that access to Bas Torres may close soon, they sprinted the last stretch to make it in time and were rewarded with an awe-inspiring view of the iconic towers shrouded in mist.
Approaching Base Torres Lookout - eerie and unique.
Determined not to miss the experience, I planned an early morning attempt the next day. Partha and I started at 5 a.m., hoping to catch the sunrise against the towers. Despite our determination, the rangers denied access, citing ongoing weather issues. Though disappointed, the effort was a testament to our resolve.
Amit, Avijit and Jaydeep at the Bas Torres Lookout.
Day 8: Camp Chileno to Laguna Amarga – The Final Stretch
Distance: 4.2km | Time: 1:15 hours | Elevation: 130m gain / 419m loss
The final day of the trek began with a light drizzle as we made our way down from Camp Chileno to the Laguna Amarga bus stop. The trail, though short, felt symbolic as we reflected on the journey that had brought us closer as friends and challenged us individually.
Las Torres Hotel.
Passing by the famous Las Torres Hotel, we were greeted with the comforting thought of returning to Puerto Natales for a well-deserved meal. As always, our conversations were lively, with laughter echoing across the winding paths.
Day 9: Back at Puerto Natales.
Upon reaching the bus stop, a mix of relief and nostalgia set in. The O Circuit had been more than a trek, it was a journey of rediscovery, camaraderie, and resilience. Despite the physical challenges and unexpected hurdles, the experience left us with memories to cherish for a lifetime.
As I sit writing this, I often find my mind drifting back to the windswept trails of Patagonia, the laughter around the dinner table, and the sheer sense of accomplishment at the end of each day. Turning 50 with this adventure was truly a gift, a celebration of friendship.
Other useful information
Accommodation
While securing a simple hotel in Puerto Natales was straightforward, planning for the 7-night trek required considerable advance preparation. Accommodation within the park is limited, and spots fill up quickly, especially during peak season, with bookings often made months or even a year ahead.
Inside Torres del Paine National Park, staying overnight is only allowed at designated campsites. These campsites offer various options, including pre-pitched tents, elevated deluxe tents with more space, and limited lodge accommodations (dormitory-style with bunk beds). You can also book a space to pitch your own tent. Of the seven campsites we booked, we were fortunate to secure a lodge for one night; the remaining nights were split between pre-pitched and elevated tents.
Food
To ensure convenience and proper nourishment, we pre-booked all three meals at each campsite. Dinner and breakfast were served in communal dining areas, while a packed lunch was provided for us to carry during the day’s hike. Most campsites also featured cafeterias where you could order snacks, beer, and other beverages. The only exception was Los Perros campsite, which lacked this additional option. Bathing facilities with warm water were available at most sites, offering a welcome reprieve after a long day on the trail.
Amenities: Washrooms, Wi-Fi, and Payments
For those who can’t fully disconnect, Wi-Fi is available for purchase at campsites, although it comes at a high price. Thankfully, credit cards are widely accepted throughout the park, making transactions easy. After each day’s trek, we made the most of the facilities by taking warm showers and unwinding with hikers from around the world, often over a beer, sharing stories and soaking in the camaraderie of the trail.
Photo Credits: Most of the images in this blog are courtesy of Avijit Das, whose keen eye captured the breathtaking landscapes of Patagonia.
Have Questions? If you're planning a trek to Torres del Paine or embarking on the O Circuit and need advice, feel free to reach out to me at anirban@reccy.co. I'd be happy to help!